The climbing-shaped hole in my heart

The climbing community has come out strongly to do our part in containing the spread of Covid 19. This is the most important issue right now and I am touched by the actions of many.

With climbing walls closed, what can we do to fill the climbing-shaped hole in our hearts? Many have gone straight to the fingerboard - which I agree is a very useful tool. However finger strength is only one component of climbing. The multi-faceted nature of climbing is why I enjoy it so much. 

feels from @rawk_tawk <3

 
 

Climbing ability consists of 5 major components:

      1. Movement skill

      2. Mindset 

      3. Physical conditioning

      4. Social support

      5. Relationship with nature

If climbing is a big part of your day-to-day life, it is important to keep up these elements to maintain your mental and physical well-being. Climbing can fulfil a lot of roles in our lives, sometimes without us being aware of it.

It is natural to worry about getting weaker and worse at climbing. It is okay to be sad and to miss it. Take time to be sad and to come to terms with this. It is important to remember this:

You do not have to become worse or weaker at climbing because of this break.

Any loss of form will only be temporary as long as we treat it as such.

Ben Moon famously took a 8 year hiatus from climbing, returning with an inspiring 4th ascent of Rainshadow 9a. Buster Martin took a 4 year break and made a comeback with an ascent of the same climb. In this Arch podcast, London’s local hero Matt Cousins shares that he took a 3 year break from climbing when he was younger, and guest Molly Thompson-Smith took a 4 month gap in the same year she achieved her first podium finish in a Lead World Cup.

It is super common to have a break from climbing at some point in your life. This is normal and nothing to worry about. A break can be an opportunity to develop your climbing in new and unexpected ways. This is what I learnt from the breaks I have had.

For about 6 months during A levels, I stopped climbing to focus on my studies. I did a lot of competitions back then and many of my competitors were my friends. However when my friends did well, I was not able to be truly happy for them. Taking a break from climbing took the pressure off my performance and gave me an opportunity to build a different relationship with competition. I can now truly enjoy climbing in the presence of other women and be inspired by their company. I did not want to take this break, but with hindsight I know that it was the best thing I could have done for my climbing.

Another break I had was for about 4 months due to a back injury. This is the worst injury I’ve ever had and I was not able to do simple tasks like put on my shoes. I was forced to learn about my body and its needs. I started doing Pilates which gave me a whole new perspective on movement. I learnt about myself - that I could be resourceful, patient and systematic. Instead of worrying about injury, now I focus instead on preparing my body for the intensity of climbing. 7 months after the injury, I climbed my first V8 outdoors and never looked back. I know that without this break I would be a very different climber. 

I like biographies because they give a more accurate sense of what it means to live a life in climbing. Here are some that I really enjoyed. I hope they will be a nice distraction and help you to feel more comfortable about this forced hiatus (at least with regards to climbing).

Climbing Free by Lynn Hill

Rock Athlete by Ron Fawcett

Beyond Limits by Steve McClure

Alone on the Wall by Alex Honnold

Open by Andre Agassi (not a climber but a fascinating insight into a life in sport!)

There is plenty you can do to keep up your climbing practice without access to a wall. I will be writing more posts over the next weeks to share some of my ideas of what you can do at home :)

*** Update***

For more content of what you can do at home to keep up your climbing practice, check out my Patreon Page

Stay safe keep well!

X

ThoughtsXian Goh